Amos’ Pin

Finished product first.

 

Like most of my projects, this one started with a 3D model (made by Zack Sweeten) and the print was taken care of by Shapeways. Unfortunately for privacy reasons they are not able to share printing progress (I asked).

 

I sanded the 3D print, shot it with primer, and polished it to get it ready for molding. If you’d like to know more about my process, check out my guide on ‘Finishing 3D Prints’

 

The molding process was simple since I was just making a box mold. I used a 3D printed mold box to contain the silicone and then hot glued the box in place.

 

By using a brush to coat the top of the master, it eliminates the possibility of air bubbles getting trapped (which would effectively ruin it).

 

The rest of the silicone is then poured. I used Mold Star 20T because it’s transparent and has a speedy cure time of 30 minutes.

 

The silicone is cured and it’s ready to start production! For easier handling of getting the cast out of the mold, I cut slits for the horns and beard.

 

I use a technique called cold casting, where a metallic powder is brushed onto the mold, then the material of choice (usually resin) is poured in.

 

I used @Folkenstal ‘Warmaiden’ powder for this. The left is the mold before brushing on the powder, and the right is after.

 

The pins don’t just have flat backs, they need backings. To hold the blank pin in place, I used a hand tool commonly used for soldering and other tinkering hobbies.

 

Then it’s time to pour the resin! It was cast with SmoothCast 300 with So-Strong black tint. I do some slush casting before pouring in the bulk of it.

 

I let it fully cure for 30 minutes before puling the cast out of the mold. This is particularly finicky mold since the mouth is fairly hollow and the horns are quite thin so I make sure to be gentle when taking it out. Here’s a gif of me demolding it.

 

 

While I do like the look of the fresh cold cast, some highlights would add extra depth to the color. To achieve this I used Rub’n’Buff and a Q-tip to brush against the cast

 

Before and after applying Rub’N’Buff

 

Rub’N’Buff does tend to get on anything it touches though, so I made sure to coat it with 2 layers of Montana GOLD varnish.

 

Once that dries it’s ready to wear!