I loved Thor: Ragnarok, and not just because I have a deep connection to the comics and Norse mythology. While I don’t think I’ll ever cosplay as Hela, I wanted to make these swords for someone who might.
Print Time: 32 Hours
Post-Processing Time: 47 Hours
Model available for download here
**Disclaimer** Most of these steps were done outside, including the sanding. I take progress shots indoors for better lighting. Don’t sand or cut metal indoors and always wear eye/breathing protection!
Let’s get started. This particular model was a breeze to print with no requirements for supports. There were 6 separate pieces that were printed with brims as safeguarding against warping. The model itself also had a hole running down the middle to make room for rods for extra reinforcement.
Once all the parts were printed, it was time for assembly. If you need a more in-depth guide to how I assemble 3D printed parts, check out my guide here: https://fjorimakes.com/guide-assembling-multiple-3d-printed-parts/
First, I sanded each piece that was going to have contact with another part with 60 grit sandpaper. This ensures more surface contact between parts.
For the adhesive I went with epoxy glue, using about a half teaspoon of each bottle. Once mixed, it coats about 2 parts. I gobbed it on pretty generously. When the epoxy glue oozes out, I rub it around the seam a bit to give it extra bond. Is it necessary? Probably not.
Clamps were used on the vertical pieces.
The sword still needed final assembly, but first I had to measure the 1/4 inch rods.
To measure how long you need to cut them, stick the rod in the first section of the print and mark on the rod where it ends. Repeat the process with the other sections. I then measured all of the marks and used that final measurement to mark where I want to make the cuts.
A dremel and a metal rod cutting bit did the trick here. **Eye protection is key for this!**
Seriously, wear eye protection!
I wasn’t happy enough to just have rods in there, so I added epoxy glue onto the rods as well to ensure it doesn’t rattle around. Plus it gives it a bit more structural stability.
A quick sneak peak of a before and after
I used Free Form Air from Smooth-on to cover up seams. It’s a soft epoxy play dough (feels like thick marshellows!) that, when dried, is hard and completely sandable. Bondo would probably work equally well, it’s mostly just preference.
It usually looks pretty ugly during application.
It needs to sit for 12 hours or more, depending on the thickness applied. Once it cured, I sanded with 100 grit sandpaper until the seams were flush. I don’t actually sand in front of my printers – make sure to do this step in a well ventilated area!
It may be overkill, but I still use XTC 3D on top of the FFA. It gets rid of striations that I would otherwise have to slave over to sand and spray with more filler primer.
I did some preliminary sanding when the XTC 3D cured then sprayed the first layer of filler primer. Several coats of primer and sanding, then polished with 1000 grit sandpaper.
Once the final polishes have been done, it’s time to paint!
The entire thing was coated with Montana GOLD brand black matte 0900S.
Her swords weren’t completely black though, it had metallic highlights with hints of silver. To achieve this look, I used silver acrylic with a sponge to add a weathered effect on top of the black. This gave off a faint glimmer in light.
As always 2 layers of varnish was added to seal the paint job. Now here’s the final product! It was honestly so difficult to get both swords in frame for one photo!